The 7.5cm (3inch) size are ideal for potting seedlings and rooting cuttings.

Half pots, which are half the depth, or two-thirds the depth of a standard pot, are just the job for sowing fine or small numbers of seeds. Use half pots to plant cuttings, they will root quite readily in these half pots.

Half pots use half, or two thirds the amount of compost as a standard pot. This can save a fair bit of money if you are propagating a lot of plants.

Pots smaller than about 8cm are not really recommended for propagating, as they tend to dry out very quickly.

You will need a range of pot sizes from 8cm to about 15cm, but this all depends on what type of plant you are propagating.

You will find that square pots fit better in trays and heated propagators. Indeed, square pots fit better anywhere, they take up a lot less room! They are recommended rather than using round pots.

It is also handy to have some half and quarter trays for small amounts of seed sowing, transplanting and rooting small cuttings.

Seed trays come manufactured in rigid, semi-rigid and thin flexible plastics.

The *rigid is the strongest by far and is recommended. However, they are the dearest, about twice the price of flexible plastic, but they are worth the extra investment.

*(This will increase your chance of success).

Semi-rigid plastic trays are ok if used with care, especially when lifting. If they are full of compost with seeds sown or cuttings planted they will twist as they are lifted if care is not taken. This twisting will disturb and dislodge any seeds, seedlings or cuttings, which will probably mean they will fail.

Thin flexible trays should be avoided. They will twist and distort much too easily when lifting, even with extreme care. They are also impossible to clean without them breaking and splitting.

Although cheap, these thin flexible seed trays should be avoided and are NOT recommended as equipment for the job!

The module seed tray inserts are very useful for allowing seedlings and cuttings to develop strong root systems before they are transplanted. And, what is more important, as the seedlings or cuttings are in a cell of there own, there is very little disturbance of the root system when they are transplanted.

*These seed tray module inserts are highly recommended.

*(This will increase your chance of success).

Although these seed tray inserts are an additional cost, they will pay for themselves over and over again, as you will certainly have more success with your propagating and they can be used over and over again and again.

Some are complete with ventilation louvers which give some moisture and temperature control, but not much.

*(This will increase your chances of success).

These clear plastic seed tray covers can also be bought separately from the seed trays.

Always, always, always label your pots or trays of newly sown seeds or cuttings, include the plant name and date on the label.

It is so easy to forget what seeds you have sown or what cuttings you have planted if you do not label them straight away. Especially if you are propagating several different types of plants.

The result of not labeling can be very frustrating.

A good example is propagating fuchsias. With so many different fuchsia varieties and so many varieties looking very similar, without a label you are unable to identify which plant is which.

Imagine having a dozen rooted fuchsia cuttings ready to be potted on.

Without a label, what are they? Bush? Hardy? Trailer? Who knows? You will have no idea. So many fuchsias look the same it is impossible to tell.

You will not know how to treat them to get the best results. What size pot do you use?

Fuchsias need to be trimmed to get the best overall plant shape. This is known as stopping. If you don't know what variety it is, bush or trailer, how can you stop the plant to get the best overall shape.

So, use a label.

And don't forget, use a label, they form an essential part of your tools for the job!

The heated propagator will give a bottom heat, which is much more important to germinating seedlings and rooting cuttings, than air temperature.

These heated propagators come with a heated base and a clear plastic cover, usually with louver vents.

They are available in various sizes, some are suitable for use on windowsills.

Heated propagators are available with or without thermostatic control.

If there is no thermostat to control the heat then the heat is on permanently.

This makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to keep the heat in the propagator at the required constant temperature.

This usually means that seeds or cuttings are subjected to a constant temperature that is too high. Unfortunately the only end result is loss of seeds and failure of cuttings.

If you are going to buy a heated propagator, buy one with a *thermostatic control, as shown here!

*(This will increase your chance of success).

Being able to adjust the temperature by a thermostat gives you complete control of the microclimate inside the propagator.

You can set the temperature required, by the thermostat, and it will be constantly maintained, within a degree or two.

But, of course, having a feature such as thermostatic control comes at a price. Thermostatically controlled propagators are at least half the price again of propagators without a thermostat.

But the extra price is a very good investment especially if you intend propagating lots of plants.

Unheated propagators are available in various sizes and come complete with a clear plastic cover, usually with louver vents.

Some are suitable for use on windowsills.

Unheated propagators are invaluable for maintaining a high humidity for seedlings and cuttings.

Unheated propagators, unlike heated propagators, will not maintain a constant temperature. The temperature inside the unheated propagator will fluctuate in line with the surrounding ambient temperature.

Don't be put off by this fluctuation in temperature as you can obtain exceedingly good results with seed sowing and raising cuttings in unheated propagators.

Start off with a unheated propagator and progress to a heated one as and when you become more experienced.

They are also used for hardening off plants before being planted out.

A good cold frame is worth its weight in gold for *over-wintering some types of seedlings, rooted cuttings and some types of mature plants.

They are especially useful in giving vegetable seeds an early start.

Cloches will give some newly planted vegetable plants a head start. And if used for strawberries they can give you an earlier than usual crop.

Cloches can also be used to root a wide range of (easily rooted) cuttings.

Cloches come in plastic film and rigid plastic tunnel types.

Glass is also still used but usually the rigid cloche is made from plastic materials.

Make your own with clear plastic sheet and plastic water pipe, or similar, for supporting hoops.

*Plastic drinks bottles, the two liter size, with the bottom cut off can be used as a cloche for individual plants.

Leave the top on or unscrew and remove for ventilation. These plastic bottles are ideal for many plants, and not just vegetables!

(*This will increase your chances of success).

Soil warming cables come in various lengths depending on how big you want your propagating unit.

Soil warming cables need to be covered with moist sand in a purpose built frame.

Not the ideal thing if you are not a handy DIY'er. But having said that, they really are quite easy to make using five inch by half inch, soft wood planks cut to the required lengths and butt jointed.

Line the frame with waterproof plastic and add a 2 inch layer of gritty sand.

Arrange the required length of soil warming cable on top, fitting a thermostat, if required, and then add another one inch of gritty sand.

Make a simple clear polythene cover supported by props, and hey presto, there you have it, your own soil warming unit.

Don't forget though, with all that sand the unit will be quite heavy. So make sure your bench is strong enough to take the weight.

They can simply be laid out on a bench and will give bottom heat to your seeds and cuttings, and if fitted with a thermostat, ideal.

Make a cover from clear polythene to provide a microclimate for even better results and you really are giving your propagating success chances a real boost.

These heat mats, once your seedlings or rooted cuttings have been transplanted, can simply be rolled up for storage.

These heat sheets come in various sizes and need to be laid on one inch thick polystyrene.

On top of the heat sheet is a sheet of thick gauge polythene and on top of that a sheet of capillary matting which is thoroughly wetted.

A cover of clear polythene on a home made frame will retain the heat and provide an invaluable microclimate.

The heat sheets usually come with a sensor and a thermostat, or they can be purchased separately.

Although fairly expensive, and you have to install them yourself, a wide range of plants can be successfully propagated on these propagating benches.

If you intend propagating a lot of plants a propagating bench, installed in a green house, or conservatory would be a very wise investment. They are highly recommended.

Mist propagators provide an ideal and constant micro climate for rooting cuttings.

They maintain the correct temperature at the base of the trays or pots of cuttings.

But what makes mist propagators so ideal is that they minimise plant moisture loss by a controlled periodic misting of the foliage of the cuttings being rooted.

Misting will dramatically reduce transpiration by reducing the leaves temperature and by maintaining a high humidity at the surface of the leaves.

Mist propagators are best left to the experienced and to the professionals.

They are definitely not an essential part of your equipment for the job....not just yet anyway!

But who knows, you may become experienced yourself and wish to invest in one? Let's hope so!